Wine at the Crossroads: Golan Heights Winery

Tour guide in Israel holding up a map of the Golan Heights

The Holidays are my favorite time of year. I grew up decorating a Christmas tree with my Grandma, making certain foods, and enjoying the “chilly” California nights. About five years ago I converted to Judaism before I got married, and it was one of the best decisions I ever made. I now identify with a culture and a people and it has opened up my world in ways I could never imagine. The benefit of being a convert to Judaism around the holidays is that you can easily split up the family visiting duties! We spend Christmas time with my family and Hanukkah with Aaron’s family. A perfect balance! As we get ready to light the Hanukkah candles this weekend, I am remembering my trip to Israel in 2017. 

In January of that year I visited Israel as part of the Honeymoon Israel group. This was a trip for young Jewish couples to connect with their Judaism. Our group consisted of LGBT couples, ally couples, mixed race couples, and interfaith couples. Quite the diverse group. The trip did not shy away from “complicated” history of Israel and the ongoing conflicts. As a part of the trip we visited the Golan Heights area in the north, which is just a few hundred feet from the Syrian border. At the time I was immersed in learning about Israel and trying to understand the complicated nature of life in the Middle East. 

Signs in the Golan Heights, a few hundred feet from the Syrian border

Fast forward to 2019 and I was asked to attend a press luncheon for the Golan Heights Winery. Quite a different topic of study here! But I was excited to explore winemaking in a region with such a rich history. Golan Heights Winery (and Galil Mountain Winery) fall under the Yarden, Inc. umbrella. The seminar took place at Gwen in Los Angeles with Victor Schoenfeld, head winemaker since 1992, walking us through the Yarden portfolio. 

Victor Schoenfeld, head winemaker

There is evidence of winemaking in Israel from 5,000 years ago. Israel is uniquely situated on the eastern Mediterranean at the intersection of Europe, Asia, and Africa. The Yarden certified sustainable vineyards are at a high elevation (1300-3900 feet) and on volcanic soils. According to Victor, the role of elevation is critical. Without elevation they could not make wine as it would be too hot. With such a rich (and old!) history of winemaking, you might wonder why there are not indigenous varieties in the area. That’s because the land was under Muslim (read: no alcohol) rule in the 7th century and all indigenous varieties were lost.

Kosher wines have had a bad reputation because of Manischevitz and the old method of heating or cooking wine to keep it kosher. Don’t let those past experiences taint your view of Israeli and/or Kosher wines. Kosher wines can be wines of quality. In fact, Yarden is one of the leaders in quality Kosher wines. Wines that can stand on their own against other world-class wines.

Also, expect to see more Israeli wines in the US. According to Victor, 75% of their wines are consumed in Israel and 25% are exported. However, export is a huge focus at the moment. 

The Tasting Lineup

And here are the wines I sampled:

Yarden Blanc de Blancs 2011 (SRP $32.99)
Bubbles from Israel! This is a 100% Chardonnay traditional method sparkling wine. Bone dry with only 4-5 g/L of residual sugar (RS). Great citrus/green fruit character moving into toasty baguette-like notes.

Yarden Sauvignon Blanc 2018 (SRP $19.99)
Partial oak aging with 25% of this wine fermented in French oak. Lots o’ tropical fruit (especially on the palate) and a full body. Persistent acid.

Yarden Katzrin Chardonnay 2017 (SRP $38.99)
Ripe fruit that covers the spectrum: citrus to stone to tropical. Oak and creamy notes abound plus some florals. This wine is aged sur lie for 9 months in new French oak.

Yarden Merlot 2014 (SRP $30.99)
A standout, complex Merlot! Red plus black fruit, orange peel, dried sage, earth, and bitter chocolate on the palate. Fabulous acid and well-integrated tannins. Overall a very balanced wine. 18 months in French oak.

Yarden Merlot Odem Organic Vineyard 2014 (SRP $109.99)
A vineyard designate Merlot that shows earthier than the previous Merlot. A slight green, pyrazine note (bell pepper) plus sweet tobacco and chocolate. This wine is fermented and aged sur lie in French oak for 7 months.

Yarden Petit Verdot 2015 (SRP $38.99)
Loved this wine! Very dark in color, as Petit Verdot usually is. Dark black fruit plus floral (violet), spice, and chocolate notes. This wine is aged 18 months in French oak (40% new).

Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (SRP $35.99)
At first I wasn’t too impressed with this one. The tannins were a bit weak and I felt this wine wasn’t as assertive as it could be. According to Victor, this wine is in its dormant phase and will improve with age. We shall see! Aged 18 months in French oak (40% new).

Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon Bar’on Vineyard 2014 (SRP $105.99)
A lovely Cab. With a juxtaposition of deep dark fruit (New World style) and an earthy/dusiness (Old World style). Victor says this wine has one foot in the Old World and one foot in the New World. Which is actually a perfect analogy for Israel as a country. Aged 18 months in French oak.

Irvine & Roberts Vineyards: A Southern Oregon Standout

There is something to be said about people in the wine business. They’re a great group and it's very rare to find a dud in the bunch. If you make wine or you own a vineyard, chances are you’re a happy person (my personal opinion with no statistics to back it up!). Some people studied wine in college and knew their path, while others had a full career in another industry and came to wine for a change of pace and/or to pursue their passion. Such is the case for Doug & Dionne Irvine.

Irvine & Roberts is a family-owned estate vineyard and winery at the southern end of the Rogue Valley AVA in southern Oregon. Many are familiar with the Willamette Valley spanning from the Portland area in the north to the Eugene area in the south. Southern Oregon is also a growing wine region. In fact, there are about 40 wineries within 30 minutes of Irvine & Roberts. 

So how did land developers from southern California end up making wine in Oregon? Doug actually grew up on a ranch in southern Oregon. He went down to California for school and landed at UC-Irvine, ironically. He then became a successful real estate developer in southern California, which is how he met his wife, Dionne. In 1997 and after three children, they decided to make their way back to Oregon for a slower life and to raise their kids in the country. We haven’t even gotten to wine yet!

In the mid-2000’s Doug & Dionne found themselves on vacation in Italy and after a revelatory experience with a bottle of Gaja Nebbiolo, they wondered if they might try their hands at making wine. At that time, the southern Oregon wine scene was brand new and the barrier to entry was low. They decided to take a chance and made 250 cases that first year with the Irvine Wine Company.

In 2012, Doug’s sister Kelly Roberts and her husband Duane joined the business and the winery name changed to Irvine & Roberts. They expanded and bought more acreage at that time. Now, they have nearly 40 acres planted to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir plus a little Pinot Meunier. Their goal is to make thoughtful Chardonnay and Pinot Noir of true character and regional identity. In my words they make what I like to call: honest, regional wines. Speaking of local, their winemaker Vince Vidrine, came from Domaine Serene in the Willamette Valley. 

With land ownership, in my opinion, comes the responsibility to give a f*ck about the environment. They are L.I.V.E. and Salmon-Safe Certified, employ an integrated pest management strategy, and utilize cover crops, owl boxes, and insect vectors. They are not certified organic, but they did initiate organic grape growing practices in 2017. That was also the year their onsite winery was inaugurated. 

Upon arriving to the tasting room, we were warmly welcomed. And I can attest that this is one of the most beautiful tasting rooms I have been in. The pictures speak for themselves. And with their spectacular wine, you are sure to enjoy their visit. Below are the standout wines that I tried:

Irvine & Roberts 2017 Estate Chardonnay $32
Earlier this year I tried the 2016 and was blown away. This one also did not disappoint. A focused and acid-driven Chardonnay with notes of stone fruit, white flowers, and wet stone/minerality. This is HANDS DOWN my favorite of the Irvine & Roberts portfolio.

Irvine & Roberts 2017 Pinot Meunier $40
How often do you get to try a varietally labeled Pinot Meunier? I have to say, this was my first! They’ve got less than 1 acre of Pinot Meunier planted, so this is a special wine. Only 237 cases were produced of this vintage. Red fruit and rose petals plus an earthy herbaceous quality.

Irvine & Roberts 2016 Estate Pinot Noir $35
Their entry level Pinot, which is distributed and can be found in many states. The requisite Pinot notes of red fruit + earth and spice.

They also have a couple single block Pinots: the 777 Block and the Wädenswil Block. Also, they will soon release their first vintage of the Convergence Pinot Noir. This wine will be barrels that Vince personally selects. It's not clone or block driven, but rather a snapshot of what is working in the winery at that moment.

What's next for Irvine & Roberts? They are dappling in Gamay (see my article about Oregon Gamay HERE), Pinot Meunier, and a sparkling program. We even got to pop in the winery and see the sparkling wines resting in bottle. Can't wait for those beauties!

O. Vine: The Wine Alternative

Disclaimer: these beverages were received as samples

Wine plays an important part of my life. Personally, I love wine and professionally I find myself around wine regularly. Believe it or not, I don’t drink a lot of wine. I do taste a lot of wine. But in a regular week, I might only drink a glass or two, and it’s not uncommon for me to go wine-free for an entire week. As I get older I certainly find that those around me are drinking less and for good reasons: they’re pregnant, doing a cleanse, or on the Whole30 train. I also have sober people in my life, those in recovery, and people who, in general, just don’t like to drink.

There have been some recent studies that seem to reinforce what I’m seeing in my own life. I recently read THIS article on The Guardian about how alcohol consumption by millenials is on the decline.  Similarly, I can’t seem to pick up a wine trade mag without seeing an article about the low/no alcohol trend. And more frequently in restaurants, I’m seeing non-alcoholic mixology drinks on the cocktail list. 

As a host in my personal life and as an event producer by trade, I frequently am tasked to come up with non-alcoholic alternatives to serve guests. There’s the requisite still and sparkling water (which isn’t too exciting). You can layer in soda or juice, but being that I am in LA, people tend to shun sugar. Let’s face it, the non-alcoholic drink segment is quite boring.

When I got an email from a wine PR firm to sample a non-alcoholic beverage, I was intrigued! The product is O. Vine Wine Essence Water. Their patent pending sustainable production method upcycles grape skins and seeds (from Galil Mountain Winery in Israel) used in winemaking and captures their taste, aroma, color, and antioxidants. The result is alcohol-free O.Vine, a wine grape infused water that is light, dry, crisp, and low calorie. I count three LA-friendly descriptors in that sentence: sustainable, upcycle, and antioxidant! I enthusiastically requested samples.

Fast forward. The samples have arrived, and I have to say, this might be the most exciting non-alcoholic beverage since millennials discovered La Croix! 

I was sent both their white and red wine essence water. And both the white and red have a “still” and “gently sparkling” option. I have to say that they are simply delicious! So much so, that I am producing an event next month and will prominently feature O.Vine as a non-alcoholic alternative for our guests.

O. Vine Red Wine Essence Water (Still & Gently Sparkling)
Featuring Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Petit Verdot wine grapes.

O. Vine White Wine Essence Water (Still & Gently Sparkling) 
Featuring Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, and Chardonnay wine grapes.

O.Vine is a great non-alcoholic holiday drink option. For your friends who don’t want to over-imbibe, this is a great alternative. They can enjoy this drink, have something more exciting than water, and people might not even know they aren’t drinking! A perfect replacement for Martinelli’s on NYE!

O.Vine comes in 12.2 oz bottles (350mL) and with a suggested retail price is $4.99 per bottle. It can be found online at Amazon and Macy’s. Also, in-store at Neiman Marcus (NYC location only) and at WorldMarket locations across the country.

The Seychelles: Another World

Anse Source d'Argent, La Digue
Source: seychelles.travel

It’s no secret that travel is my #1 passion. The thing I would do every single day if money was no object. I love to get out, see the world, and enjoy the people, food, and drink of a new place. Over the course of the last year, I have been on some spectacular vacations including: China, London, Scotland, Amsterdam, and Australia. What has been missing is a true tropical vacation. A vacation where all you pack are bathing suits, cover ups, and some sunblock. I recently attended a press luncheon for the island of Seychelles and I was blown away. Blown away by the beauty, the calm, and the total island vibe of this beautiful place. It is DEFINITELY on my bucket list!

Anse Lazio, Praslin
Source: seychelles.travel

The Seychelles consists of 115 granite and coral islands in a secluded part of the Indian Ocean off the eastern coast of Africa. The Seychelles includes the granitic “Inner” islands, the cultural focal point of the country, that cluster around the principle islands of Mahé, Praslin, and La Digue. And the “Outer” islands, which extend west towards the coast of Africa and where the majority of the population lives. 

Ox Cart
Source: seychelles.travel

The Seychelles is a great destination year-round. The only times to avoid are the months of July and August, which are characterized by rain, wind, and choppy waters. Otherwise you’re in the clear! There are three official languages: English, Creole, and French. And yes, William & Kate did honeymoon here:)

What separates the Seychelles from many luxury tropical destinations are their conservation efforts. All 5-star properties employ a conservationist and a whopping 50% of their landmass has been set aside as land for national parks and marine reserves.

The Seychelles are home to two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the Vallée de Mai on Praslin Island and the raised coral atoll of Aldabra. The main island is Mahé, where you can find the international airport and a cruise dock (see below)! They have also banned overwater bungalows because of their conservation programs. 

Hawkbill Turtle
Source: seychelles.travel

What does one do in the Seychelles? The islands lie outside of the cyclone belt, so a year-round sailing season can be enjoyed. Activities such as spas, birdlife, fly fishing, deep-sea fishing, diving, golf, water sports, and hiking are plentiful. Fun fact: all beaches in the Seycelles are public! 

Natura Trail, Morne Blanc
Source: seychelles.travel

The islands have a mere population of 95,000 people and no visas are required, which makes traveling here a breeze.

If you’re looking for a more all-inclusive type trip, perhaps a Crystal Cruises journey on the Crystal Esprit ship is in order. This is their most premium ship; it embodies boutique and luxury, and yet they follow the casual, laid back Seychelles vibe. No sport coats or high heels here! This small, yet mighty ship boasts 31 all-suite, butler serviced staterooms. This ship is truly all-inclusive to the highest caliber. There are Seychelles sailings in January, February, and March or an 8 day/7-night journey. 

Crystal Esprit
Source: crystalcruises.com

Where are you off to next? I'm heading to Copenhagen, Denmark tomorrow. A far cry from the tropical Seychelles!

Bourgogne Wines 101

beaune-tourism.com

I really, really, really wanted to call this piece “Burgundy Wines 101”. BUT the Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne is pushing for the region to be called Bourgogne vs Burgundy in international markets. Ok, I’ll oblige. 

In fact, this is a perfect introduction to the confusing world of Bourgogne. There’s no way around it. I have been studying wine for the better part of five years, and I still don’t quite GET Bourgogne. And I remember while I was in WSET Diploma study mode, many of my classmates felt the same.

A few months ago I attended an all-day Bourgogne educational seminar put on by Somm360, which is a continuing education platform for somms. My favorite quote of the day was from Christian Oggenfuss, founder of the Napa Valley Wine Academy. “Generalities are dangerous in Bourgogne because there are so many exceptions.“ See…it’s confusing!!

Bourgogne is a geographical and a wine region in the east of France. In regards to wine, the sub-regions north to south are: Chablis, the Côte-d’Or (which includes the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune), Côte Chalonnaise, and the Mâconnais.

Here are some basics facts about Bourgogne to get your feet wet:

*The main red grape is Pinot Noir, secondary is Gamay
*The main white grape is Chardonnay, secondary is Aligoté
*61% of wine production is white, 28% is red, and 11% is sparkling
*The US is the #1 export market for Bourgogne
*In 2015, Bourgogne was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Let’s briefly explore the quality pyramid in Bourgogne (top to bottom):

Grand Cru (1% of production)
There are 33 Grand Crus. Examples include: Montrachet and Charmes-Chambertin. These wines are of the highest quality level within the region.

Village Level & Premier Cru (47% of production)
There are 44 Village and Premier Cru. Examples include: Chablis 1er Cru, Mercurey, Pouilly-Fuissé). 

Regionale AOC Level (51% of production)
There are 7 regional AOCs that makeup 50% of the entire surface area of Bourgogne AOC. An example is Mâcon-Villages.

So what separates us from Bourgogne wines. For one, it’s confusing. And secondly, it’s expensive!

Why is Bourgogne Confusing?

Labeling of wines in the Old World is confusing AF for American consumers. French (and all Old World wine) is bottled by the region/village and NOT the grape. For example, a white Bourgogne would not say “Chardonnay” anywhere on the bottle. Also, unless it is of the basic regional quality level (see below), the label might not even say Burgundy/Bourgogne. Let’s say it’s a white Chardonnay from Meursault (a sub-region of the Côte de Beaune), it would only say Meursault on the label, plus the name of the producer, who you may or may not know. So if you don’t know the producer and/or that sub-region, you’re SOL!

Another confusing part of Bourgogne are the inheritance laws in the area, which are bonkers. Called the Napoleonic code, the law is that a vineyard is split equally among heirs from generation to generation; making for an extremely fragmented system that adds to the confusion.

The Burgundian even have their own word/notion for terroir. The term is “climat”. Climat is unique to Bourgogne. A climat is a specific area within Bourgogne that enjoys particular geological and climatic conditions. No joke, there are several THOUSAND climats in Bourgogne. And a climat is not to be confused with a lieux-dit, which is a small area of land whose name recalls a specific aspect of topographical or historical nature.

At the seminar, I asked one of the instructors to break down climat vs lieux-dit simply, as I didn’t quite get it. This person is a top Bourgogne expert. As they were explaining it, it slowly got complicated and we were back to where we started. I found that this person was unable to break it down in an easy to understand and simple manner. Now this is not to put someone down. This is to give example to why Bourgogne (fuck it…Burgundy) is so damn complicated. Why is it so expensive and why do only fancy, rich people drink it? Because it’s confusing AF and ain’t nobody got time for that! I love wine, but I just don’t have the energy to comprehend Bourgogne. I’ll keep trying (a little bit at a time), but I don’t really have the patience nor the pocketbook to really “get” the region.

Why are Bourgogne wines so expensive?

For one, scarcity. There are only 29,000 hectares under vine in Bourgogne. By comparison, Bordeaux has four times that. Another reason why Bourgogne is expensive is because the quality level of the wine (as a general rule) is so high and their popularity is equally high. The basic law of supply and demand. Many of the high-end wines in Bourgogne are vanity wines. Wines meant to show off and flaunt. For example, a Grand Cru from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti can easily run a few thousand dollars, for those willing to fork it over. What does that mean for the rest of us? Not much. Most of us cannot afford those wines and are not their target market. But know that there are lovely Bourgogne wines for the rest of us! There are plenty of entry-level wines that provide enormous value.

Bottom line. I have nothing but respect for all of the classic wine regions of the world, including Bourgogne. I just don’t have time for them all. One thing that really trips up wine consumers is the vastness of the wine landscape. Just because you don’t “get” Burgundy, don’t just throw up your hands. I hold a pretty high-level wine certification and I don’t quite “get” it either. And that’s ok. I am always open to learn and I hope you are too!

Hard stats above came from vins-bourgogne.fr

Valle de Guadalupe Never Disappoints

I’ve said it a few times, and I’ll say it again. As a SoCal resident, the Valle de Guadalupe winegrowing region in Baja California, Mexico is THE most exciting thing happening on the West Coast in wine. Where else can you go and enjoy the Mexican flavor and hospitality that we all love BUT with the added bonus of a wine country backdrop? I’ll give you a hint. NOWHERE!

This past summer I had two new Valle de Guadalupe experiences, including a bachelorette party in the region as a wine pairing luncheon in Los Angeles. Both were lovely! The wine area in VdG is called the “Ruta del Vino” and the region has Jewish, Russian, and Spanish roots.

At the LA Wine Writers luncheon, our guest speaker was Stacie Hunt, who knows the region inside and out. She is a longtime VdG supporter and has been enjoying and touting their wines for many years…..before it was cool!

Ten years ago in VdG there were only 15 bonded wineries, and they didn’t talk much to each other. Now there are dozens of wineries, and a much more collaborative spirit. Investment and experimentation reigns. The region does not have one grape to hang their hat on, and like most New World wine regions, there is little to no regulation, so it’s a bit like the Wild West……you can decide what to plant, when to pick, etc.

Water is one of the biggest problems in the Valle, as drought prevails in the area. Because of this, irrigation is needed, and drip irrigation is frequently used. You might think that Mexico is too hot to grow grapes….not the case! There is frequently a 20-25 degree difference from day to night (called diurnal range). Plus, the area has nighttime breezes and morning fog, both which help move (hot) air out and allow the grapes to breathe!

So how do you know you are drinking a VdG wine. Some say there is a distinct rockiness, minerality, and salinity to their wines. Both white and red. Have you tried wines from VdG? Do you agree with this? Would love to start a convo!

Below are the fantastic pairings we enjoyed at the LA Wine Writers VdG luncheon at the (always fabulous) Napa Valley Grille.

Amuse
Poached Bosc Pear with Burrata and Endive

Pairing
Cavas Maciel Venus Rosa of Merlot Valle de Guadalupe
Family famers. New to wine (only 10 yrs). Bright red cherry and cranberry. Phenolics on the palate (which I generally get from VdG). Good acid. Nice primary fruit follow through on the palate. 

1st Course
Diver Scallop Crudo with Cucumber Brunoises, Blood Orange Reduction 

Pairing
Monte Xanic 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Valle de Guadalupe
A German family. A distinct SB (unlike any other). Bracing acid, white flower (elderflower), green fruit, and stone fruit. 

2nd Course
Seared Cumin Crusted Seabass, Coconut Cauliflower Puree 

Pairing
El Cielo 2015 Chardonnay Valle de Guadalupe
A typical, oaked Chardonnay. Could be from anywhere. I have tried El Cielo wines three times and have not found anything to make me stand up and pay attention. 

Vinos Lechuza 2016 Chardonnay Valle de Guadalupe
Vinos Lechuza is the polar opposite. I have had their wines a few times and am always BLOWN AWAY. In my opinion, they are the most quality producer in the Valley. A well-rounded wine with good textural mouthfeel (from battonage and malo). Moderate acid with some creamy/yogurt notes. Green fruits (apple and pear) moving into more tropical notes of pineapple and lychee.

3rd Course
Pasta Arrabbiata with Pecorino Romano 

Pairing
Viñedos de la Reina 2015 Sangiovese Valle de San Vicente
A really nice rustic nose. Who doesn’t love a good rustic nose? Dark cherry notes with some floral (violets) and black pepper.

4th Course
Santa Maria Grilled Tri-Tip with Chimichurri, Spring Farmers Vegetables, Tri Tip Jus 

Pairing
Vena Cava 2016 Tempranillo Valle de Guadalupe
Smells a bit like Spain. Bright, yet ripe red fruit plus spice. 

Harney Lane: Love, Laughter, Family, Wine

A couple times a week I receive wine sample invitations from various PR firms. I reply to the requests, and within a week or so, the wines are delivered to my house. When I received the Harney Lane shipment, I was struck by the personal touch. In addition to the wines and tech sheets, I received a handwritten note (on Harney Lane stationary) and a business card from a Harney Lane employee.

THIS is the Lodi spirit.

A wine region with generations of winegrowing history, and a focus on family farming. According to the Harney Lane website “we have been proud stewards of the land since 1907, farming vineyards on Harney Lane and surrounding areas for over 5 generations.” And in 2006 they entered the winemaking side to make wine under the Harney Lane label. Lodi, including Harney Lane, is steeped in tradition and authenticity. I felt that firsthand on my first trip to Lodi in 2016. Read more HERE. 

Wines tasted in this shipment:

Harney Lane 2017 Chardonnay
Winery Tasting Notes: Bright fruit aromas of apple, ripe pear, and white peach are followed by toasted nuts and butterscotch, laced with honeysuckle. The 2017 vintage showcases the Lodi appellation with a classic mix of lively fruit, nutty spice, and creamy richness.
My Notes: A creamy, rich, and smooth Chardonnay expression. This wine coats my mouth, yet leaves me wanting more. Medium plus body and flavor intensity. Beautiful and elegant. Showcases precision and balance.

Harney Lane Old Vine Zinfandel 2015 Lizzy James Vineyard
Winery Tasting Notes: A rich compilation of concentrated blackberry compote, dried fruit, floral perfume, black spices, cinnamon, maple and bread pudding. Voluptuous, bold, and full-bodied.
My Notes: Deep, ripe black fruit abounds (got prunes?). This is the Lodi Zin I want to present to someone who self-professes to not like Lodi Zin. The varietal and the Lodi terroir are showcased here. A deep dark Zinfandel, yet with acidity retained to allow the fruit to take center stage. No flabbiness here. Tasting this wine will erase any memory of a mass produced Calfornia red.

Kudos Sonoma. Now What?

Earlier this year I attended a press dinner put on by the Sonoma County Winegrowers. The purpose of the dinner was to share updates from the destination – ranging from the status of their 5-year plan to become the first 100% sustainable wine region in the United States to the new augmented reality app that helps wine labels come to life immediately, engaging the consumer with stories, video and information on Sonoma County’s sustainability quest.

In 2014 Sonoma County Winegrowers announced their goal to move towards 100% sustainability. Fast forward and their vineyards are now 92% are sustainable. What does “sustainable” mean? In Sonoma this means that the vineyard has to apply for and receive certification from at least one of four third-party sustainability programs: the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance, Fish Friendly Farming, Sustainability in Practice and Lodi Rules. 

This all sounds great, right? Well, many industry folk on social media did not agree. Accusations of greenwashing began. Greenwashing is essentially a PR spin about the environmental friendliness of a product/service or in this case, Sonoma County. The accusation is that Sonoma County is focusing on their achievements in the area of “sustainability”, yet their use of glyphosate, an herbicide that is the main ingredient in Roundup is high.

So what’s the real deal? To begin with, I am not an environmental scientist, and will not delve into a deep conversation that is above my skillset. I am a wine educator (with a WSET Diploma certification) and a member of the wine press, so I do know quite a bit about wine. My opinion here might be an unpopular one. But hey, what’s life if you don’t take chances and make yourself uncomfortable?

I am of the opinion that the first step is to acknowledge the accomplishments of Sonoma County, no matter how big or small you believe them to be. For that, I say: KUDOS SONOMA. I am here to celebrate all of the steps towards your goal of becoming 100% sustainable. Celebrations of the journey are an important part to help move forward into bigger, bolder goals. These are all things that push the needle in the right direction, especially when you look at the long-term implications for our environment. The question now becomes: Now What? What are the next steps to tackle the use of glyphosate on Sonoma vineyards? Will organic certification become a priority? Perhaps the next goal?

It is worth noting that in 2016, Sonoma County Winegrowers received the Governors Environmental and Economic Leadership Award (GEELA), the state’s highest environmental honor that is administered by the EPA. And, according to Karissa Kruse (president of the Sonoma County Winegrowers), use of glyphosate on Sonoma vineyards decreased 17% between 2016 and 2017 in Sonoma County. According to Karissa, Sonoma Winegrowers are now moving towards a Climate Adaptation Certification, in which vineyards will track carbon sequestration and greenhouse gas emissions.

Are there other winegrowing regions doing more? Of course. Are there other winegrowing regions that are doing less? Definitely. My trade and media colleagues seemed to paint a picture of Sonoma and their (dis)regard for the environment. I support and I stand with Sonoma. Sonoma is such a wonderful place and a place I still associate with the “farmer” who grows grapes and maybe pours their own wines in the tasting room (I have had this experience in Sonoma). I look forward to following Sonoma's journey towards 100% sustainability and for other future environmental goals that they set.

With all this being said, let’s talk about the lovely Sonoma wines I enjoyed that evening.

Hanna Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley 2017

Grass in a glass! 

Patz & Hall Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2016

Buttery and creamy on the nose but with an unexpected lift and freshness on the palate. 

 

Macrostie Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2017

Deep, robust flavors. Really lovely. 

Walt Wines Pinot Noir Bob's Ranch Sonoma Coast 2016

Punchy! I smell the red fruit + dirt that is my marker for a Pinot Noir.

Seghesio Zinfandel Alexander Valley 2015

Dirt/earth on the nose and prune on the palate. 

Medlock Ames Cabernet Sauvignon Kate's & B's. 

Such a lovely Cab nose. 

New South Wales: Wine Country

Next month I am traveling to Australia for the second time. My first trip in 2012 was purely for pleasure. I went with two girlfriends and we explored Sydney, the Hunter Valley, Brisbane, Cape Tribulation, and Uluru (Ayers Rock). It truly was the trip of a lifetime. In October I will be there for the Wine Media Conference, formerly the Wine Bloggers Conference, which takes place in the Hunter Valley. This will be a simple trip for me with a few days in Sydney, a few days in the Hunter, and then back home! Q4 is a busy travel season for me, so I opted not to make it an extended vacation.

Back to the Hunter! The Hunter Valley is about 2 hours north of Sydney on the East Coast of Australia in the state of New South Wales. Within the state of NSW, there are 14 distinct wine regions, which I will explore below. The Hunter Valley is really the only one known on a world-scale. The others are more locally focused. 

The most important wine in NSW is arguably Hunter Valley Semillon, which used to be called Hunter River Riseling. Aged Hunter Valley Semillon is divine and I cannot wait to dig into some of that on my trip!

Below is a summary of the 14 wine regions of New South Wales.

Hunter Valley is the oldest and most visited wine country in Australia. Vines were first planted in the area in the early 1820s from cuttings bought by James Busby, considered the father/grandfather of Australian wine. Other wine pioneers here included: George Wyndham (first planting, 1828), Henry Lindeman (first vineyard site, 1843), Joseph Drayton (planted his first vines, late 1850s), Edward Tyrell (first planting, 1861), and John Younie Tulloch (first vineyard, 1895). In modern times, winemakers started flocking here in the 1960’s and 1970’s. There are more than 150 cellar doors in the Hunter, more than any other region.

New England is the newest and most northern region in NSW with 40 vineyards. It was officially registered as a winegrowing region in 2008, but is actually a re-emerging region as vineyards were first planted in the 1850s. New England is topographically diverse, including high-altitude vineyards (over 1,000 meters), cool climate vineyards along the spines of the Great Dividing Range, and warmer vineyards at lower elevation on the western edges of New England. Australia’s highest altitude vineyard lies here: Black Mountain at 1,320 meters above sea level. In fact, this area is the only part of Australia with terra rossa soil at altitude. Varieties grown here include: Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Shiraz.

Hastings River is quite north near the town of Port Macquarie. This is one of the smallest sub-regions with only 200 hectares under vine. The first vines were planted here in 1837 by Henry Fancourt White, but they did not receive their official Geographical Indication (GI) until 1999. John Cassegrain helped in the rebirth of grapegrowing in 1980. He is also the first to produce Chambourcin commercially in Australia. Grapes grown here include Chambourcin, Chardonnay, Verdelho, Semillon, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. The climate here (sub-tropical and humid) is suitable for the Chambourcin grape, which is disease and mildew resistant.

Cowra is more inland and directly west from Sydney, situated in the warm, fertile Lachlan Valley. Half of the regions wine producers are certified for organic and biodynamic production! Vines were not planted here in the area until 1972 and they were granted GI status in 1998. Now there are 40 vineyards in the area with 9 cellar doors.

Orange, an inland area west of Sydney is a wine region defined by altitude. It is NSW’s largest high-altitude cool climate region with 1500 hectares under vine and 80 vineyards, most family-owned. Also, 30 cellar doors.

Mudgee is one of the few NSW regions to retain a continuous link with the vines/vineyards planted by the colonial founders. The first vineyards were planted by three settlers from Germany: Adam Roth, Andreas Kurtz and Frederick Buchholz. The Roth and Kurtz families still have holdings in the area. In fact, vines on the Kurtz property were identified as clones of some of the original Chardonnay vine stock brought to Australia from Europe during the early days of the colony. Most of Australia’s Chardonnay stocks are sourced from these vines and are virus free. However, it is notable that 75% of local production is based on reds, mostly Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Shoalhaven Coast is a newer region with vines first planted in the 1970s. Breathtakingly beautiful coastal vineyards define the area and oysters are a specialty here. This is actually the start of the South Coast Oyster Trail.

Southern Highlands didn’t have vine plantings until 1983. This is a cool climate, high altitude region with a specialty in Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc.

Canberra District is defined by their complicated land laws, which have discouraged vine plantings in the area. Vineyards have been planted within the ACT (Australian Capital Territory) since 1988. They are mostly small-scale growers with 30+ cellar doors. Fun fact, Canberra is one of Australia’s key truffle-growing areas!

Hilltops is an area known for cool-climate reds. Not wine related, but interesting, their two main annual events are: Running of the Sheep and the National Cherry Festival.

Gundagai is a very new region and doesn’t really have a wine identity just yet.

Riverina is the big boy where Yellowtail is based. There are 20,000 hectares planted and they produce 60% of the state’s production and are the state’s largest exporter.

Perricoota is the smallest NSW wine region located along the Murray River. There are only a handful of growers in the region. They all work together (as a co-op) and make the Collexion, a wine made using the fruit from all the growers in the area.

Tumbarumba is a cool climate region known for sparkling wines, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir grapes. 

Thank you to the sponsors/partners of the Wine Media Conference, including: Destination Sydney Surrounds North, the Hunter Valley Wine & Tourism Association, NSW Wine Industry Association, the Royal Agricultural Society of NSW, Destination NSW, and Wine Australia.

Bibiana & Jeff: All In the Family

Bibiana González Rave and husband Jeff Pisoni are the embodiment of keeping it all in the family. Jeff is a 4th generation farmer in the Salinas Valley. His family grew vegetables, but it was his father Gary, who first planted grapevines in 1982. Gary planted 5 acres that he hand-irrigated. Literally. He drove water up the mountain in his truck for the vines. Jeff now tends to vines in both the Santa Lucia Highlands and Monterey.

Bibiana grew up in Medellin, Columbia and at 14 decided she wanted to make wine. She lived six years in France (Bordeaux and Burgundy) where she worked her first harvests and earned a degree in Enology from the University of Bordeaux. She considers herself a French-trained winemaker with more of a vineyard focus. Jeff handles all of the estate fruit and Bibiana buys all the sourced fruit. All in the family. They have two children, ages two and four and between the two of them, they manage/oversee six different labels/brands.

République hosted us at a press luncheon in March where we tried wines from each of their brands. Below is a brief descriptor of each brand, including my standout wine.

Why am I sharing this story and this family with you? Because I believe there is a level of integrity and authenticity that comes from wine crafted by a family. Crafted by real people with real skin in the game. Bibiana and Jeff have a portfolio of California wines that you should feel good about purchasing. You are supporting a real family, real people, and real dreams.

Cattleya Wines
Started in 2011, Cattleya Wines are terroir driven, small production wines. Cattleya is a type of orchid, the native flower of Columbia, found in the rainforest.

2014 Cattleya Cuvée Number Five Russian River Chardonnay $50 (current vintage 2017)
I find this wine super-duper pleasing. Very primary plus creamy malo notes and an elegant minerality. Ripe, juicy, and yummy. 

Alma de Cattleya
Alma means soul in Spanish. These wines are produced from Napa and Sonoma Vineyards and represent the purity of each varietal from their specific appellation areas. Wine Enthusiast calls Alma de Cattleya Wines “a great taste of the freshness of Sonoma without the sticker shock”.

2018 Alma de Cattleya Sauvignon Blanc $20
A Sauvignon Blanc that is the perfect balance of CA style and NZ style. I get everything from citrus fruit to tropical fruit plus some grassy/green notes. This wine is made from Mostly Russian River fruit. 1000 case total production. 

Shared Notes
This is the collaboration between Bibiana and Jeff. In their 6th vintage, these wines are
inspired by the traditional Sauvignon Blanc wines from France.

2017 Shared Notes Les Leçons des Maîtres $65 (current vintage 2018)
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon inspired by Bordeaux. Whole cluster fruit and a wine made in a reductive style showcasing both rocks (minerality) and fruit. Served in magnum. This wine is unfined and unfiltered. 

Pisoni Estate
Was first planted by Gary Pisoni (Jeff’s dad) in 1982. Pisoni Vineyards consist of small vineyard blocks at 1300 ft altitude with wines made by Jeff. Pisoni makes only one Chardonnay and one Pinot Noir every year.

2017 Pisoni Estate Pinot Noir (allocation only)
Really polished. Not much else to say except that this is a stellar wine. 

Lucia Wines
A collection of wines from the three vineyards farmed by the Pisoni family. These are limited production wines that afford the Pisoni family complete control of the farming and winemaking process, ensuring consistently superior quality.

2017 Lucia Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands)
Fruit from the Soberanes, Gary's, and Pisoni Vineyards. This wine is barrel aged and was the creamiest Chardonnay of the bunch, but in a GOOD way.

Lucy
The charismatic younger sister of Lucia Wines. A limited production rosé produced annually with $1/bottle donated to breast cancer research.

2018 Lucy Rosé of Pinot Noir (allocation only)
100% estate fruit. A stellar rosé. 

And I'd be remiss if I did not mention Margarita's baguette and Normandy butter that was served to us at République. Normandy butter is most certainly liquid gold. The best butter I have ever tasted. 

Titus Vineyards: 50 Years in Napa

In 1968, Titus Vineyards was born with the purchase of their property. They have farmed this land continually since 1969, which gives them 50 years in Napa Valley. Today, Titus Vineyards remains family owned. The property consists of a 50-acre vineyard, winery, and tasting room at the base of Howell Mountain in the St. Helena AVA, near Calistoga. I had the pleasure of lunching with Eric Titus who shared with us their current releases as well as some treats from their library.

In the vineyard, they prefer a “light touch”, including no mechanization. Stephen Cruzan has been their winemaker since 2015, which is the year their onsite winery was completed. Before that, Philip, Eric’s brother, headed up winemaking at a custom crush facility. Philip now makes wine at Chappellet, but he is still involved with Titus. They built the winery to be able to be more nimble, reactive, and agile and so that they could make decisions with more flexibility. They are now holding at 14,000-15,000 cases annually.

I asked the question: what is next for Titus? What do the next 50 years bring? Eric’s response is that they always like to keep their options open. This could mean the next generation of the Titus family taking over. Or perhaps, maybe there is a sale in their future? Only time will tell.

Titus Wines Tasted:

2016 Andronicus Red Wine $32
Andronicus is Eric and Philip’s ode to the blend. This wine is predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon (66%) with some Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. A classic Bordeaux blend. A generous red that is both hyper balanced and precise with a combination of red and black fruit, spicebox, vanilla, and smoke. 

2016 Cabernet Sauvignon $57
A youthful purple color. A balanced wine with well-integrated tannins. I want this wine on a Friday night: in front of the fire, cozying on the couch with my husband, my dog, and a cushy blanket.

2016 Zinfandel $37
An unabashed Zin, not afraid of its raisin quality. Juicy red fruit plus prunes on the nose.

2016 Cabernet Franc $54
A beautiful, ethereal wine. Underbrush and graphite on the nose. Licorice on the back palate. 

2017 Sauvignon Blanc $28
Small production with only 1,000 cases. A splash of Viognier softens this wine and helps knit the fruit together. A totally different perspective on Sauvignon Blanc. The acidity and greenness are in check. In fact, this wine is all tangerine, all the time.

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon $177
Red, black, and blue fruit on both the nose, and the palate. A bit of heat on the nose. Good tannic structure plus licorice/anise on the back palate. 

2010 Cabernet Sauvignon $137
Chocolate and cocoa on the nose. Even more of a tannic structure than the ‘06. 

2012 Petit Verdot
This wine screams that it wants a pork tenderloin to go with it! The predominant fruit here is blueberries. A basket of tiny, ripe blueberries. 

2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
A deep purple core with a watery rim. SO much fruit still here for being a 10 year old wine. 

2012 Lot 1 Red Wine $129
A blend of Malbec, Petit Sirah, Petit Verdot, and Zinfandel. A big ‘ol wine with lots ‘o tannins. This is the biggest, and juiciest of the bunch. According to Eric, this wine is about hedonism.