Wine at the Crossroads: Golan Heights Winery

Tour guide in Israel holding up a map of the Golan Heights

The Holidays are my favorite time of year. I grew up decorating a Christmas tree with my Grandma, making certain foods, and enjoying the “chilly” California nights. About five years ago I converted to Judaism before I got married, and it was one of the best decisions I ever made. I now identify with a culture and a people and it has opened up my world in ways I could never imagine. The benefit of being a convert to Judaism around the holidays is that you can easily split up the family visiting duties! We spend Christmas time with my family and Hanukkah with Aaron’s family. A perfect balance! As we get ready to light the Hanukkah candles this weekend, I am remembering my trip to Israel in 2017. 

In January of that year I visited Israel as part of the Honeymoon Israel group. This was a trip for young Jewish couples to connect with their Judaism. Our group consisted of LGBT couples, ally couples, mixed race couples, and interfaith couples. Quite the diverse group. The trip did not shy away from “complicated” history of Israel and the ongoing conflicts. As a part of the trip we visited the Golan Heights area in the north, which is just a few hundred feet from the Syrian border. At the time I was immersed in learning about Israel and trying to understand the complicated nature of life in the Middle East. 

Signs in the Golan Heights, a few hundred feet from the Syrian border

Fast forward to 2019 and I was asked to attend a press luncheon for the Golan Heights Winery. Quite a different topic of study here! But I was excited to explore winemaking in a region with such a rich history. Golan Heights Winery (and Galil Mountain Winery) fall under the Yarden, Inc. umbrella. The seminar took place at Gwen in Los Angeles with Victor Schoenfeld, head winemaker since 1992, walking us through the Yarden portfolio. 

Victor Schoenfeld, head winemaker

There is evidence of winemaking in Israel from 5,000 years ago. Israel is uniquely situated on the eastern Mediterranean at the intersection of Europe, Asia, and Africa. The Yarden certified sustainable vineyards are at a high elevation (1300-3900 feet) and on volcanic soils. According to Victor, the role of elevation is critical. Without elevation they could not make wine as it would be too hot. With such a rich (and old!) history of winemaking, you might wonder why there are not indigenous varieties in the area. That’s because the land was under Muslim (read: no alcohol) rule in the 7th century and all indigenous varieties were lost.

Kosher wines have had a bad reputation because of Manischevitz and the old method of heating or cooking wine to keep it kosher. Don’t let those past experiences taint your view of Israeli and/or Kosher wines. Kosher wines can be wines of quality. In fact, Yarden is one of the leaders in quality Kosher wines. Wines that can stand on their own against other world-class wines.

Also, expect to see more Israeli wines in the US. According to Victor, 75% of their wines are consumed in Israel and 25% are exported. However, export is a huge focus at the moment. 

The Tasting Lineup

And here are the wines I sampled:

Yarden Blanc de Blancs 2011 (SRP $32.99)
Bubbles from Israel! This is a 100% Chardonnay traditional method sparkling wine. Bone dry with only 4-5 g/L of residual sugar (RS). Great citrus/green fruit character moving into toasty baguette-like notes.

Yarden Sauvignon Blanc 2018 (SRP $19.99)
Partial oak aging with 25% of this wine fermented in French oak. Lots o’ tropical fruit (especially on the palate) and a full body. Persistent acid.

Yarden Katzrin Chardonnay 2017 (SRP $38.99)
Ripe fruit that covers the spectrum: citrus to stone to tropical. Oak and creamy notes abound plus some florals. This wine is aged sur lie for 9 months in new French oak.

Yarden Merlot 2014 (SRP $30.99)
A standout, complex Merlot! Red plus black fruit, orange peel, dried sage, earth, and bitter chocolate on the palate. Fabulous acid and well-integrated tannins. Overall a very balanced wine. 18 months in French oak.

Yarden Merlot Odem Organic Vineyard 2014 (SRP $109.99)
A vineyard designate Merlot that shows earthier than the previous Merlot. A slight green, pyrazine note (bell pepper) plus sweet tobacco and chocolate. This wine is fermented and aged sur lie in French oak for 7 months.

Yarden Petit Verdot 2015 (SRP $38.99)
Loved this wine! Very dark in color, as Petit Verdot usually is. Dark black fruit plus floral (violet), spice, and chocolate notes. This wine is aged 18 months in French oak (40% new).

Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (SRP $35.99)
At first I wasn’t too impressed with this one. The tannins were a bit weak and I felt this wine wasn’t as assertive as it could be. According to Victor, this wine is in its dormant phase and will improve with age. We shall see! Aged 18 months in French oak (40% new).

Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon Bar’on Vineyard 2014 (SRP $105.99)
A lovely Cab. With a juxtaposition of deep dark fruit (New World style) and an earthy/dusiness (Old World style). Victor says this wine has one foot in the Old World and one foot in the New World. Which is actually a perfect analogy for Israel as a country. Aged 18 months in French oak.

Irvine & Roberts Vineyards: A Southern Oregon Standout

There is something to be said about people in the wine business. They’re a great group and it's very rare to find a dud in the bunch. If you make wine or you own a vineyard, chances are you’re a happy person (my personal opinion with no statistics to back it up!). Some people studied wine in college and knew their path, while others had a full career in another industry and came to wine for a change of pace and/or to pursue their passion. Such is the case for Doug & Dionne Irvine.

Irvine & Roberts is a family-owned estate vineyard and winery at the southern end of the Rogue Valley AVA in southern Oregon. Many are familiar with the Willamette Valley spanning from the Portland area in the north to the Eugene area in the south. Southern Oregon is also a growing wine region. In fact, there are about 40 wineries within 30 minutes of Irvine & Roberts. 

So how did land developers from southern California end up making wine in Oregon? Doug actually grew up on a ranch in southern Oregon. He went down to California for school and landed at UC-Irvine, ironically. He then became a successful real estate developer in southern California, which is how he met his wife, Dionne. In 1997 and after three children, they decided to make their way back to Oregon for a slower life and to raise their kids in the country. We haven’t even gotten to wine yet!

In the mid-2000’s Doug & Dionne found themselves on vacation in Italy and after a revelatory experience with a bottle of Gaja Nebbiolo, they wondered if they might try their hands at making wine. At that time, the southern Oregon wine scene was brand new and the barrier to entry was low. They decided to take a chance and made 250 cases that first year with the Irvine Wine Company.

In 2012, Doug’s sister Kelly Roberts and her husband Duane joined the business and the winery name changed to Irvine & Roberts. They expanded and bought more acreage at that time. Now, they have nearly 40 acres planted to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir plus a little Pinot Meunier. Their goal is to make thoughtful Chardonnay and Pinot Noir of true character and regional identity. In my words they make what I like to call: honest, regional wines. Speaking of local, their winemaker Vince Vidrine, came from Domaine Serene in the Willamette Valley. 

With land ownership, in my opinion, comes the responsibility to give a f*ck about the environment. They are L.I.V.E. and Salmon-Safe Certified, employ an integrated pest management strategy, and utilize cover crops, owl boxes, and insect vectors. They are not certified organic, but they did initiate organic grape growing practices in 2017. That was also the year their onsite winery was inaugurated. 

Upon arriving to the tasting room, we were warmly welcomed. And I can attest that this is one of the most beautiful tasting rooms I have been in. The pictures speak for themselves. And with their spectacular wine, you are sure to enjoy their visit. Below are the standout wines that I tried:

Irvine & Roberts 2017 Estate Chardonnay $32
Earlier this year I tried the 2016 and was blown away. This one also did not disappoint. A focused and acid-driven Chardonnay with notes of stone fruit, white flowers, and wet stone/minerality. This is HANDS DOWN my favorite of the Irvine & Roberts portfolio.

Irvine & Roberts 2017 Pinot Meunier $40
How often do you get to try a varietally labeled Pinot Meunier? I have to say, this was my first! They’ve got less than 1 acre of Pinot Meunier planted, so this is a special wine. Only 237 cases were produced of this vintage. Red fruit and rose petals plus an earthy herbaceous quality.

Irvine & Roberts 2016 Estate Pinot Noir $35
Their entry level Pinot, which is distributed and can be found in many states. The requisite Pinot notes of red fruit + earth and spice.

They also have a couple single block Pinots: the 777 Block and the Wädenswil Block. Also, they will soon release their first vintage of the Convergence Pinot Noir. This wine will be barrels that Vince personally selects. It's not clone or block driven, but rather a snapshot of what is working in the winery at that moment.

What's next for Irvine & Roberts? They are dappling in Gamay (see my article about Oregon Gamay HERE), Pinot Meunier, and a sparkling program. We even got to pop in the winery and see the sparkling wines resting in bottle. Can't wait for those beauties!

O. Vine: The Wine Alternative

Disclaimer: these beverages were received as samples

Wine plays an important part of my life. Personally, I love wine and professionally I find myself around wine regularly. Believe it or not, I don’t drink a lot of wine. I do taste a lot of wine. But in a regular week, I might only drink a glass or two, and it’s not uncommon for me to go wine-free for an entire week. As I get older I certainly find that those around me are drinking less and for good reasons: they’re pregnant, doing a cleanse, or on the Whole30 train. I also have sober people in my life, those in recovery, and people who, in general, just don’t like to drink.

There have been some recent studies that seem to reinforce what I’m seeing in my own life. I recently read THIS article on The Guardian about how alcohol consumption by millenials is on the decline.  Similarly, I can’t seem to pick up a wine trade mag without seeing an article about the low/no alcohol trend. And more frequently in restaurants, I’m seeing non-alcoholic mixology drinks on the cocktail list. 

As a host in my personal life and as an event producer by trade, I frequently am tasked to come up with non-alcoholic alternatives to serve guests. There’s the requisite still and sparkling water (which isn’t too exciting). You can layer in soda or juice, but being that I am in LA, people tend to shun sugar. Let’s face it, the non-alcoholic drink segment is quite boring.

When I got an email from a wine PR firm to sample a non-alcoholic beverage, I was intrigued! The product is O. Vine Wine Essence Water. Their patent pending sustainable production method upcycles grape skins and seeds (from Galil Mountain Winery in Israel) used in winemaking and captures their taste, aroma, color, and antioxidants. The result is alcohol-free O.Vine, a wine grape infused water that is light, dry, crisp, and low calorie. I count three LA-friendly descriptors in that sentence: sustainable, upcycle, and antioxidant! I enthusiastically requested samples.

Fast forward. The samples have arrived, and I have to say, this might be the most exciting non-alcoholic beverage since millennials discovered La Croix! 

I was sent both their white and red wine essence water. And both the white and red have a “still” and “gently sparkling” option. I have to say that they are simply delicious! So much so, that I am producing an event next month and will prominently feature O.Vine as a non-alcoholic alternative for our guests.

O. Vine Red Wine Essence Water (Still & Gently Sparkling)
Featuring Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Petit Verdot wine grapes.

O. Vine White Wine Essence Water (Still & Gently Sparkling) 
Featuring Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, and Chardonnay wine grapes.

O.Vine is a great non-alcoholic holiday drink option. For your friends who don’t want to over-imbibe, this is a great alternative. They can enjoy this drink, have something more exciting than water, and people might not even know they aren’t drinking! A perfect replacement for Martinelli’s on NYE!

O.Vine comes in 12.2 oz bottles (350mL) and with a suggested retail price is $4.99 per bottle. It can be found online at Amazon and Macy’s. Also, in-store at Neiman Marcus (NYC location only) and at WorldMarket locations across the country.

The Seychelles: Another World

Anse Source d'Argent, La Digue
Source: seychelles.travel

It’s no secret that travel is my #1 passion. The thing I would do every single day if money was no object. I love to get out, see the world, and enjoy the people, food, and drink of a new place. Over the course of the last year, I have been on some spectacular vacations including: China, London, Scotland, Amsterdam, and Australia. What has been missing is a true tropical vacation. A vacation where all you pack are bathing suits, cover ups, and some sunblock. I recently attended a press luncheon for the island of Seychelles and I was blown away. Blown away by the beauty, the calm, and the total island vibe of this beautiful place. It is DEFINITELY on my bucket list!

Anse Lazio, Praslin
Source: seychelles.travel

The Seychelles consists of 115 granite and coral islands in a secluded part of the Indian Ocean off the eastern coast of Africa. The Seychelles includes the granitic “Inner” islands, the cultural focal point of the country, that cluster around the principle islands of Mahé, Praslin, and La Digue. And the “Outer” islands, which extend west towards the coast of Africa and where the majority of the population lives. 

Ox Cart
Source: seychelles.travel

The Seychelles is a great destination year-round. The only times to avoid are the months of July and August, which are characterized by rain, wind, and choppy waters. Otherwise you’re in the clear! There are three official languages: English, Creole, and French. And yes, William & Kate did honeymoon here:)

What separates the Seychelles from many luxury tropical destinations are their conservation efforts. All 5-star properties employ a conservationist and a whopping 50% of their landmass has been set aside as land for national parks and marine reserves.

The Seychelles are home to two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the Vallée de Mai on Praslin Island and the raised coral atoll of Aldabra. The main island is Mahé, where you can find the international airport and a cruise dock (see below)! They have also banned overwater bungalows because of their conservation programs. 

Hawkbill Turtle
Source: seychelles.travel

What does one do in the Seychelles? The islands lie outside of the cyclone belt, so a year-round sailing season can be enjoyed. Activities such as spas, birdlife, fly fishing, deep-sea fishing, diving, golf, water sports, and hiking are plentiful. Fun fact: all beaches in the Seycelles are public! 

Natura Trail, Morne Blanc
Source: seychelles.travel

The islands have a mere population of 95,000 people and no visas are required, which makes traveling here a breeze.

If you’re looking for a more all-inclusive type trip, perhaps a Crystal Cruises journey on the Crystal Esprit ship is in order. This is their most premium ship; it embodies boutique and luxury, and yet they follow the casual, laid back Seychelles vibe. No sport coats or high heels here! This small, yet mighty ship boasts 31 all-suite, butler serviced staterooms. This ship is truly all-inclusive to the highest caliber. There are Seychelles sailings in January, February, and March or an 8 day/7-night journey. 

Crystal Esprit
Source: crystalcruises.com

Where are you off to next? I'm heading to Copenhagen, Denmark tomorrow. A far cry from the tropical Seychelles!

Bourgogne Wines 101

beaune-tourism.com

I really, really, really wanted to call this piece “Burgundy Wines 101”. BUT the Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne is pushing for the region to be called Bourgogne vs Burgundy in international markets. Ok, I’ll oblige. 

In fact, this is a perfect introduction to the confusing world of Bourgogne. There’s no way around it. I have been studying wine for the better part of five years, and I still don’t quite GET Bourgogne. And I remember while I was in WSET Diploma study mode, many of my classmates felt the same.

A few months ago I attended an all-day Bourgogne educational seminar put on by Somm360, which is a continuing education platform for somms. My favorite quote of the day was from Christian Oggenfuss, founder of the Napa Valley Wine Academy. “Generalities are dangerous in Bourgogne because there are so many exceptions.“ See…it’s confusing!!

Bourgogne is a geographical and a wine region in the east of France. In regards to wine, the sub-regions north to south are: Chablis, the Côte-d’Or (which includes the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune), Côte Chalonnaise, and the Mâconnais.

Here are some basics facts about Bourgogne to get your feet wet:

*The main red grape is Pinot Noir, secondary is Gamay
*The main white grape is Chardonnay, secondary is Aligoté
*61% of wine production is white, 28% is red, and 11% is sparkling
*The US is the #1 export market for Bourgogne
*In 2015, Bourgogne was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Let’s briefly explore the quality pyramid in Bourgogne (top to bottom):

Grand Cru (1% of production)
There are 33 Grand Crus. Examples include: Montrachet and Charmes-Chambertin. These wines are of the highest quality level within the region.

Village Level & Premier Cru (47% of production)
There are 44 Village and Premier Cru. Examples include: Chablis 1er Cru, Mercurey, Pouilly-Fuissé). 

Regionale AOC Level (51% of production)
There are 7 regional AOCs that makeup 50% of the entire surface area of Bourgogne AOC. An example is Mâcon-Villages.

So what separates us from Bourgogne wines. For one, it’s confusing. And secondly, it’s expensive!

Why is Bourgogne Confusing?

Labeling of wines in the Old World is confusing AF for American consumers. French (and all Old World wine) is bottled by the region/village and NOT the grape. For example, a white Bourgogne would not say “Chardonnay” anywhere on the bottle. Also, unless it is of the basic regional quality level (see below), the label might not even say Burgundy/Bourgogne. Let’s say it’s a white Chardonnay from Meursault (a sub-region of the Côte de Beaune), it would only say Meursault on the label, plus the name of the producer, who you may or may not know. So if you don’t know the producer and/or that sub-region, you’re SOL!

Another confusing part of Bourgogne are the inheritance laws in the area, which are bonkers. Called the Napoleonic code, the law is that a vineyard is split equally among heirs from generation to generation; making for an extremely fragmented system that adds to the confusion.

The Burgundian even have their own word/notion for terroir. The term is “climat”. Climat is unique to Bourgogne. A climat is a specific area within Bourgogne that enjoys particular geological and climatic conditions. No joke, there are several THOUSAND climats in Bourgogne. And a climat is not to be confused with a lieux-dit, which is a small area of land whose name recalls a specific aspect of topographical or historical nature.

At the seminar, I asked one of the instructors to break down climat vs lieux-dit simply, as I didn’t quite get it. This person is a top Bourgogne expert. As they were explaining it, it slowly got complicated and we were back to where we started. I found that this person was unable to break it down in an easy to understand and simple manner. Now this is not to put someone down. This is to give example to why Bourgogne (fuck it…Burgundy) is so damn complicated. Why is it so expensive and why do only fancy, rich people drink it? Because it’s confusing AF and ain’t nobody got time for that! I love wine, but I just don’t have the energy to comprehend Bourgogne. I’ll keep trying (a little bit at a time), but I don’t really have the patience nor the pocketbook to really “get” the region.

Why are Bourgogne wines so expensive?

For one, scarcity. There are only 29,000 hectares under vine in Bourgogne. By comparison, Bordeaux has four times that. Another reason why Bourgogne is expensive is because the quality level of the wine (as a general rule) is so high and their popularity is equally high. The basic law of supply and demand. Many of the high-end wines in Bourgogne are vanity wines. Wines meant to show off and flaunt. For example, a Grand Cru from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti can easily run a few thousand dollars, for those willing to fork it over. What does that mean for the rest of us? Not much. Most of us cannot afford those wines and are not their target market. But know that there are lovely Bourgogne wines for the rest of us! There are plenty of entry-level wines that provide enormous value.

Bottom line. I have nothing but respect for all of the classic wine regions of the world, including Bourgogne. I just don’t have time for them all. One thing that really trips up wine consumers is the vastness of the wine landscape. Just because you don’t “get” Burgundy, don’t just throw up your hands. I hold a pretty high-level wine certification and I don’t quite “get” it either. And that’s ok. I am always open to learn and I hope you are too!

Hard stats above came from vins-bourgogne.fr

Valle de Guadalupe Never Disappoints

I’ve said it a few times, and I’ll say it again. As a SoCal resident, the Valle de Guadalupe winegrowing region in Baja California, Mexico is THE most exciting thing happening on the West Coast in wine. Where else can you go and enjoy the Mexican flavor and hospitality that we all love BUT with the added bonus of a wine country backdrop? I’ll give you a hint. NOWHERE!

This past summer I had two new Valle de Guadalupe experiences, including a bachelorette party in the region as a wine pairing luncheon in Los Angeles. Both were lovely! The wine area in VdG is called the “Ruta del Vino” and the region has Jewish, Russian, and Spanish roots.

At the LA Wine Writers luncheon, our guest speaker was Stacie Hunt, who knows the region inside and out. She is a longtime VdG supporter and has been enjoying and touting their wines for many years…..before it was cool!

Ten years ago in VdG there were only 15 bonded wineries, and they didn’t talk much to each other. Now there are dozens of wineries, and a much more collaborative spirit. Investment and experimentation reigns. The region does not have one grape to hang their hat on, and like most New World wine regions, there is little to no regulation, so it’s a bit like the Wild West……you can decide what to plant, when to pick, etc.

Water is one of the biggest problems in the Valle, as drought prevails in the area. Because of this, irrigation is needed, and drip irrigation is frequently used. You might think that Mexico is too hot to grow grapes….not the case! There is frequently a 20-25 degree difference from day to night (called diurnal range). Plus, the area has nighttime breezes and morning fog, both which help move (hot) air out and allow the grapes to breathe!

So how do you know you are drinking a VdG wine. Some say there is a distinct rockiness, minerality, and salinity to their wines. Both white and red. Have you tried wines from VdG? Do you agree with this? Would love to start a convo!

Below are the fantastic pairings we enjoyed at the LA Wine Writers VdG luncheon at the (always fabulous) Napa Valley Grille.

Amuse
Poached Bosc Pear with Burrata and Endive

Pairing
Cavas Maciel Venus Rosa of Merlot Valle de Guadalupe
Family famers. New to wine (only 10 yrs). Bright red cherry and cranberry. Phenolics on the palate (which I generally get from VdG). Good acid. Nice primary fruit follow through on the palate. 

1st Course
Diver Scallop Crudo with Cucumber Brunoises, Blood Orange Reduction 

Pairing
Monte Xanic 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Valle de Guadalupe
A German family. A distinct SB (unlike any other). Bracing acid, white flower (elderflower), green fruit, and stone fruit. 

2nd Course
Seared Cumin Crusted Seabass, Coconut Cauliflower Puree 

Pairing
El Cielo 2015 Chardonnay Valle de Guadalupe
A typical, oaked Chardonnay. Could be from anywhere. I have tried El Cielo wines three times and have not found anything to make me stand up and pay attention. 

Vinos Lechuza 2016 Chardonnay Valle de Guadalupe
Vinos Lechuza is the polar opposite. I have had their wines a few times and am always BLOWN AWAY. In my opinion, they are the most quality producer in the Valley. A well-rounded wine with good textural mouthfeel (from battonage and malo). Moderate acid with some creamy/yogurt notes. Green fruits (apple and pear) moving into more tropical notes of pineapple and lychee.

3rd Course
Pasta Arrabbiata with Pecorino Romano 

Pairing
Viñedos de la Reina 2015 Sangiovese Valle de San Vicente
A really nice rustic nose. Who doesn’t love a good rustic nose? Dark cherry notes with some floral (violets) and black pepper.

4th Course
Santa Maria Grilled Tri-Tip with Chimichurri, Spring Farmers Vegetables, Tri Tip Jus 

Pairing
Vena Cava 2016 Tempranillo Valle de Guadalupe
Smells a bit like Spain. Bright, yet ripe red fruit plus spice. 

Harney Lane: Love, Laughter, Family, Wine

A couple times a week I receive wine sample invitations from various PR firms. I reply to the requests, and within a week or so, the wines are delivered to my house. When I received the Harney Lane shipment, I was struck by the personal touch. In addition to the wines and tech sheets, I received a handwritten note (on Harney Lane stationary) and a business card from a Harney Lane employee.

THIS is the Lodi spirit.

A wine region with generations of winegrowing history, and a focus on family farming. According to the Harney Lane website “we have been proud stewards of the land since 1907, farming vineyards on Harney Lane and surrounding areas for over 5 generations.” And in 2006 they entered the winemaking side to make wine under the Harney Lane label. Lodi, including Harney Lane, is steeped in tradition and authenticity. I felt that firsthand on my first trip to Lodi in 2016. Read more HERE. 

Wines tasted in this shipment:

Harney Lane 2017 Chardonnay
Winery Tasting Notes: Bright fruit aromas of apple, ripe pear, and white peach are followed by toasted nuts and butterscotch, laced with honeysuckle. The 2017 vintage showcases the Lodi appellation with a classic mix of lively fruit, nutty spice, and creamy richness.
My Notes: A creamy, rich, and smooth Chardonnay expression. This wine coats my mouth, yet leaves me wanting more. Medium plus body and flavor intensity. Beautiful and elegant. Showcases precision and balance.

Harney Lane Old Vine Zinfandel 2015 Lizzy James Vineyard
Winery Tasting Notes: A rich compilation of concentrated blackberry compote, dried fruit, floral perfume, black spices, cinnamon, maple and bread pudding. Voluptuous, bold, and full-bodied.
My Notes: Deep, ripe black fruit abounds (got prunes?). This is the Lodi Zin I want to present to someone who self-professes to not like Lodi Zin. The varietal and the Lodi terroir are showcased here. A deep dark Zinfandel, yet with acidity retained to allow the fruit to take center stage. No flabbiness here. Tasting this wine will erase any memory of a mass produced Calfornia red.